The stunning wildlife viewing opportunities in this showcase of evolution can be appreciated without, or in addition to, an expensive cruise. The three largest inhabited islands will be logical focal points. Flying in to the central island of Santa Cruz is a good starting point as boat transport to San Cristóbal to the east and Isabela to the west is cheap and convenient.
The Main Islands
Puerta Ayora, the tourist hub of the islands, is located at the southern end of Santa Cruz. Some of the day trips to the highlands (lava tubes and twin craters) and a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Centre are standard features of most cruise tours. But there are many additional activities on offer from tour agents around town, and plenty to do unescorted. Take advantage of the classy restaurants here as offerings on the other islands are more basic (though very adequate).
The main town on San Cristóbal is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, abbreviated simply as Puerto. Beautiful highland scenery includes a freshwater lake; visit the Giant Tortoise breeding centre and enjoy swimming, snorkelling and surfing. You might need to make up a group to take day boat trips to other parts of the island.
After the bustle of the more visited islands, Isabela and its sleepy township of Puerto Villamil is the place to relax. But there is plenty to do, by boat, on foot or on horseback.
The People
Amongst the advantages of spending time on land is the opportunity to interact with the Galápagos people and find out about their daily lives. The islands were originally uninhabited, so all are immigrants and most are from the Ecuadorian mainland. Many are fishing families and some are involved in agriculture, but tourism dominates the islands' economy. Most of money that tourism generates for the islands goes to the cruise companies owned by mainland or international interests, so staying on the islands is a way to support the local communities.
Responsible Tourism
The Galápagos attracts visitors with an interest in natural history and who will want to do the right thing to ensure the values of the islands are protected. The rules for activities in the National Park and interaction with wildlife are clearly spelt out to visitors on arrival. But some of the indirect impacts of tourism are less obvious, and may affect a responsible decision to plan a cruise and/or land-based activities.
Threats to the wildlife and environment are such that in 2007, UNESCO took the serious step of enscribing the Galápagos Islands as World Heritage in Danger. Invasive species, growing tourism and immigration are the identified threats. Inter-island traffic and food supplies from the mainland increase the risks of transfer of weeds and pest animals while fuel to power desalination plants must be brought in, with risks to the marine ecosystem should oil spills eventuate.
Land-based activities that support the local communities may not be beneficial to the islands if the resident population continues to grow and tourism places more demands on resources such as fresh water.
Barbara Stewart - I am an Australian ecologist based near Byron Bay on the east coast of the continent. My interests revolve around trees, forests and ...
